Wednesday, 13 February 2013

What is good - Perfume reviews

Marc Jacobs Daisy - fragrance review

Posted on 11 September 2007

Marc Jacobs‘s new Daisy fragrance is meant to be “happy and youthful”, and “more accessible than the signature range” and “sophisticated but not too serious”. In other words, it’s meant to bring younger consumers into the Marc Jacobs fold. I’m way past the target age range (said to be 18-24), but I was taken by that bottle right off the bat. It is way cute. I was worried that it would be way less cute when I saw the plastic daisies in person, but nope, it is maybe even more way cute in real life.
Daisy the fragrance is a pretty good match with Daisy the bottle. It is young and light and fresh, feminine but not sexy, easy to wear, and massively pleasant. It starts with fruit (wild strawberry, red grapefruit), neither heavy nor overly sweet, tempered by a touch of greenery (violet leaves). The floral notes in the heart (gardenia, violet, jasmine) are well-blended and sheer, and while daisies themselves have no scent, Marc Jacobs Daisy does a pretty good job of evoking a sunny, breezy meadow of random flowers. The base (musk, vanilla and white woods) is pale and clean and middling warm, and only lightly vanillic.
As you can probably already guess from the quotes in the first paragraph, Daisy isn’t likely to stun anybody with its originality, but it works well for what it is: an entry level scent for a mainstream brand that isn’t known for its challenging fragrances anyway. For such a thing, it is darned likeable. Despite the attractions of the bottle, I don’t like it well enough to actually buy it, but I’d guess many women will.
If such things appeal to you, you can play around at the daisymarcjacobs site and grow virtual daisies and win prizes and whatnot. There is also a form to request a free sample.
If growing daisies online doesn’t appeal, perhaps you’ll like this picture of Marc Jacobs in a tutu instead.
Marc Jacobs Daisy was developed by perfumer Alberto Morillas. It is available in 50 and 100 Eau de Toilette and in Velvet Body Butter & Bubbly Shower Gel. (first quote via Women’s Wear Daily, second via moodiereport, third via, Marc Jacobs in a tutu image found via Rosie & March of Perfume Posse).


Marc Jacobs Lola - perfume review

Posted on 21 July 2009

Lola is the latest perfume from Marc Jacobs. It follows the über-pleasant, über-cheerful Daisy, and is being touted as Daisy’s “confident and slightly vampy older sister”.
I’ll start with the bottle — as was the case with Daisy, the bottle here is surely at least half the point, maybe even the whole point. Daisy’s original bottle, adorned with white “retro-cool” vinyl flowers, was cute as the dickens, and while I wasn’t so sure about Lola’s bottle when I first saw the pictures, it turns out to be cute as the dickens too. The bright vinyl flower on the cap is absurdly large, so that the 50 ml bottle (see below right) in particular looks as though it might topple over at any moment. It made me laugh out loud as soon as I saw it in person. Again as with Daisy, it’s hard to take a perfume in such a bottle too seriously.

The juice is just fine. It’s pretty much exactly what it purports to be: a slightly older, slightly more sensual scent than Daisy. It seems perfectly calibrated to be Daisy’s older sister, although as several people pointed out when it was announced, if the model in the Lola ad (Karlie Kloss) is Daisy’s older sister, then Daisy must be about 12 years old.
Lola’s opening is rather loud — lots of pink pepper, lots and lots of pear, a little whoosh of tart grapefruit to keep it under control — but it doesn’t stay loud at all (the notes: pink peppercorn, pear d’anjou, ruby red grapefruit, fuchsia peony, rose, geranium, vanilla, tonka bean and creamy musk). The heart is, like Daisy’s, mostly vague-ish flowers, but they’re not so fresh and clean as Daisy’s vague-ish flowers, and the dry down is warmer, deeper, muskier, sweeter, more vanillic. There’s a tinge of something ever-so-slightly off-kilter in the dry down that I decided smelled like vinyl, but I’m probably giving it credit for more quirkiness than it warrants: as with Daisy, the quirky is pretty much reserved for the bottle design.
Like so many of the department store fragrances released over the past few years, Lola smells instantly familiar, and it no longer seems worth taking the time to figure out just which other fragrances it smells like. Suffice it to say that Lola doesn’t break any new ground in terms of fragrance history. It’s hard to believe it will sell as well as Daisy either: Daisy was so clean and fresh that anyone could wear it, Lola, just by virtue of being heavier and sweeter, might not be so easily adopted by anyone and everyone. Still, it’s absolutely fine. Oh, did I mention the bottle is cute as the dickens?
Marc Jacobs Lola was developed by perfumers Calice Becker and Yann Vasnier. It is available in 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum, in a limited edition solid perfume ring, and in matching body products. It is currently exclusive to Bloomingdale’s, and is expected to go into wider distribution in mid-August.

Marc Jacobs Dot - fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 14 August 2012

Marc Jacobs’ original eponymous fragrance now seems an anomaly (and of course, Blush is nearly forgotten). Since the massive success of 2007′s Daisy — followed, of course, by her ‘older sister’ Lola in 2009 — it’s all vinyl flowers and sunshine and happy-happy pop music. Dot fits neatly into the family, from the whimsical (and flanker-ready) bottle to the waifish young model to the oh-so casual advertising.
Perfumer Annie Buzantian’s juice is very nearly besides the point — all it need do is play nicely with the “buy me” bottle. Any requirement for surprising and/or edgy and/or challenging has presumably been met by the visual elements; the fragrance itself can settle for pleasant and wearable. Daisy managed this perfectly; even a cranky perfumista like me found it “darned likable”. Lola was fine but I didn’t like it quite so well, and frankly I don’t like this new bottle quite so well,1 but whatevs — I’m old as the hills, and so Marc Jacobs isn’t after my money (or my opinion) anyway.
Marc Jacobs has not said where, exactly, Dot fits into the family, but I’d call it Daisy’s slightly younger sister. The start is vague tropical fruits, rather sweet and loud, with a bit of sparkle (the notes: red berries, dragon fruit, honeysuckle, jasmine, orange blossom, coconut water, vanilla, musk and driftwood). For the first few minutes, it smells like another ‘tween-oriented fruit bomb, but it calms reasonably quickly, and then it’s pretty tame stuff — much tamer than Lola, albeit fruitier (and less fresh) than Daisy. The heart is the usual vague “flowers”, and the dry down is a pale woody musk. The coconut water, vanilla and “driftwood” are mild — you probably won’t notice them unless you’re looking for them — but they give Dot a subtle “summer vacation” air.
Dot is neither sophisticated nor sexy, and it isn’t trying to be. Memorable, no; distinctive, no again. It’s just what it needs to be: cheerful and easy to wear. It isn’t quite as perfectly calibrated to “massively pleasant” as Daisy; I found it “likable enough” instead of “darned likable”. That may seem like a minor distinction, but I don’t think Dot is going to find as large an audience as Daisy, which appealed to a wide range of ages and tastes. Dot’s appeal strikes me as more narrow, but it should find legs with its youthful target market, and that may be exactly what was intended.


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