Sunday, 24 February 2013

What is good - Notable perfumers

Here is a collective of famous perfumers who have created perfumes for some of the biggest brands in history. 

Ernest Beaux

Ernest Beaux (8 December 1881 – 9 June 1961) was a Russian and French perfumer who is best known for creating Chanel No. 5 which is perhaps the world's most famous perfume.

Coco Chanel No. 5
At that time, Joseph Robert was the chief perfumer at Chiris. With little prospect of being promoted under him, Beaux tried to use his contacts to the emigrated Russian nobility to get new projects. With the help of the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia (1891–1941), the lover of the rising couturier Coco Chanel (1883–1971), he could in the late summer of 1920 arrange a meeting in Cannes where he presented his current and former works. Intended as a Christmas present for her best clients Chanel chose the bottle No. 5 from the adaptation trials on »Rallet N°1«.When Beaux asked her how she wanted to name that scent, she replied: „I always launch my collection on the 5th day of the 5th months, so the number 5 seems to bring me luck – therefore, I will name it Nº 5". Initially only 100 flacons of »Chanel Nº 5« were produced, which she gave away on Christmas 1921 for free to her best clients. However, soon the demand for further supply was such that she decided to launch the perfume officially for sale in her shops in 1922. In 1922, she also launched a second fragrance from the two numbered series of bottles that Beaux had presented her, and which were numbered one through five, and twenty through twenty-four: »Chanel Nº 22«, the bottle no. 22 from the second series. But as this did worse than »Nº 5« it was withdrawn and only relaunched in 1926.
Beaux left Chiris in 1922 to head a sales agency for his friend Eugene Charabot in Paris. However, »Chanel Nº 5« did so well that Bader and Wertheimer, owners of Galeries Lafayette, bought the rights to it from Coco Chanel on April 4, 1924, and founded Parfums Chanel for which they hired Ernest Beaux as chief perfumer. In his new functiom Beaux created many famous perfumes until he retired in 1954. His successor as chief perfumer of Perfumes Chanel was Henri Robert. Beaux died in his Paris apartment in 1961, and the church in which his funeral was held was completely decorated in roses.

List of creations:

  • »Bouquet de Napoleon« (1912)
  • »Bouquet de Catherine« (1913)
  • »Rallet Nº 1« (1914)
  • »Rallet Le Gardenia« (1920)
  • »Chanel No. 5« (1921)
  • »Chanel No. 22« (1922/1926)
  • »Cuir de Russie« (1924) (marketed from 1927)

  • »Gardénia« (1925)
  • »Bois des Îles« (1926)
  • »Soir de Paris« (1929)
  • »Kobako« (1936)
  • »Mademoiselle Chanel Nº 1« (1946)
  • »Mademoiselle Chanel Nº 2« (1946)
  • »Premier Muguet« (1955)

Calice Becker
Calice Becker is a French master perfumer who worked for Roure Bertrand Dupont, GivaudanQuest International. She is currently working for Givaudan in New York City.
Calice Becker is the perfumer who created one of Marc Jacobs most recent and famous perfume 'Marc Jacobs Lola' 

List of creations:

  • Balmain Vent Vert - reformulation (1990)
  • Balmain Monsieur Balmain- reformulation (1991)
  • Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl (1996)
  • Joop What About Adam (1997)
  • Avon Women of Earth (1998)
  • Christian Dior J’Adore (1999)
  • Avon Dreamlife (2002)
  • Donna Karan DKNY Energy for her (2002)
  • Donna Karan DKNY Energy for him (2002)
  • Estee Lauder Beyond Paradise for men (2004)
  • Estee Lauder Beyond Paradise for women (2004)
  • Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl 10 (2006, with Stephen Nilsen)
  • Donna Karan Gold (2006)
  • Estee Lauder Beyond Paradise Blue (2006)
  • Lancôme Cuir de Lancôme (2007, with Pauline Zanoni)
  • By Kilian A Taste of Heaven (2007)
  • By Kilian Beyond Love (2007)
  • By Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses (2007)
  • By Kilian Love (2007)
  • By Kilian Prelude to Love (2008)
  • Davidoff Silver Shadow Private with Jacques Huclier (2008)
  • Calvin Klein Secret Obsession (2008)
  • By Kilian Back to Black: Aphrodisiac (2009)
  • By Kilian Pure Oud (2009)
  • Payard Bergamot Truffle (2009)
  • Payard Lychee Mousse (2009)
  • Payard Pistachio Ganache (2009)
  • Marc Jacobs Lola (2009, with Yann Vasnier)
  • Vera Wang Rock Princess (2009)
  • DKNY Delicious Ripe Raspeberry (2010)
  • DKNY Juicy Berry (2010)
  • By Kilian Rose Oud (2010)

Jean Carles

Jean Carles (1892–1966) was a French perfumer who worked in Roure (now part of Givaudan) in the early 20th century. He was the founder of the Roure Perfumery School and served as its first director in 1946.

Jean Carles was also the mentor of many great perfumers including Monique Schlienger and Jacques Polge.

Despite being completely anosmic near the end of his life, Carles continued his work as a perfumer with his condition only known by his son, Marcel Carles. He went on to create works such as Ma Griffe (Carven) and Miss Dior (Christian Dior) despite this condition. Due to this feat, he is often compared to Beethoven composing music in his deafness.

His creations included:

Miss Dior - Christian Dior Paris 1947

  • Miss Dior (1947) Christian Dior, with Paul Vacher
  • Ma Griffe (1946) Carven
  • Shocking (1937) Schiaparelli
  • Canoe (1935) Dana
  • Tabu (1932) Dana
  • Elle...Elle... () Lucien Lelong
  • Indescrit () Lucien Lelong
  • Orgueil () Lucien Lelong
  • Tailspin () Lucien Lelong
  • Tout Lelong () Lucien Lelong

Roja Dove

Roja Dove (born c. 1957) is a fragrance specialist, fragrance historian, and arguably the world's most famous nose, an affectionate name for a perfumer. Dove was born and raised in Sussex (southeast England), his career in perfumery began in 1981 when he joined the French perfume house Guerlain, working there for 20 years before leaving to set up his own companies RDPR and then Roja Parfums.

Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie 
In 2004 the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie opened on the fifth floor of Harrods in conjunction with Urban Retreat. The concept behind the project is a ‘store within a store’ providing a luxurious environment for which to experience and discover a range of fragrances, each chosen by Dove. Women who are looking for a more refined perfume are given the opportunity to arrange a consultation, either with Roja himself or one of his personally trained consultants, to be guided to their signature fragrance.

Since it opened in 2004 the Haute Parfumerie has stocked scents from many famous and unfamiliar brands including: Tom FordCaronLaliqueXerjoffDiorAtelier FlouClive Christian, and Grossmith etc.

List of collaborations:

  • 2005, Hardy Amies, Hardy Amies
  • 2006, Kelly Hoppen Candle
  • 2009, 6, Pierre de Velay
  • 2009, 11, Pierre de Velay
  • 2009, 23, Pierre de Velay
  • 2010, Blessings, Belinda Brown
  • 2010, M, Puredistance
  • 2010, Buzz, The Sun
  • 2010, Diaghilev, The Victoria and Albert Museum
  • 2011, Four Seasons Amenities, Four Seasons Park Lane London

Sophia Grojsman

Sophia Grojsman (born March 1945) is a perfumer who has created some of the best known fragrances in the world for the past thirty years. Many of the perfumes created by her are based on the scent of rose. Grossman is a Vice President ofInternational Flavors and Fragrances, a perfume and scent company whose annual sales exceed two billion dollars (USD).

Sophia Grojsman started her life in Belarus, a former Soviet state. Her family moved to Poland when she was fifteen, and she received a Bachelor of Science degree in analytical inorganic chemistry there. In 1965, Grojsman immigrated to the United States and a year later began to work at International Flavors and Fragrances as a lab assistant. In 1994, Sophia Grojsman received the Cosmetic Executive Women's Achiever Award for her lifetime contributions to perfumery. She also received the Living Legend Award from the American Society of Perfumers in 1996, and again in 1999 Grojsman was honored by the Cosmetic Executive Women for her lifetime achievements in the fragrance industry. 

Lancôme Trésor Sparkling 

Among the best-selling fragrances that Grojsman has created:

  • Bill Blass Nude (1990)
  • Boucheron Jaipur (1994)
  • Bvlgari Bvlgari Pour Femme (1994)
  • Calvin Klein Eternity (1988)
  • Calvin Klein Eternity Purple Orchid (2002)
  • Celine Magic (1996)
  • Christian Lacroix Christian Lacroix (1999)
  • Elizabeth Taylor Diamonds and Rubies (1993)
  • Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds (1991)
  • Estée Lauder Beautiful (1985)
  • Estée Lauder Spellbound (1992)
  • Estée Lauder White Linen (1978)
  • Frederic Malle Outrageous! (2007)
  • Gloria Vanderbilt Vanderbilt (1982)
  • IVS Elite Group Désir Coulant (2012)[5]
  • HRH Princess Elizabeth E (2002)
  • HRH Princess Elizabeth Jelisaveta (2002)
  • Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars (1994)
  • Kenzo Kashaya (1994)
  • Lalique Lalique (2002)
  • Lancôme Trésor (1990)
  • Lancôme Trésor Sparkling (2007)
  • Laura Biagiotti Sotto Voce (1996)
  • Paloma Picasso Tentations (1996)
  • Perry Ellis 360° (1992)
  • Prescriptives Calyx (1987)
  • Michel Germain Séxūal (1994)
  • S-Perfume 100% Love (2003)
  • Yves Saint Laurent Paris (1983)
  • Yves Saint Laurent Paris Premieres Roses (2003)
  • Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse (1993)

Francis Kurkdjian
Recognized as one of the world most celebrated perfumers, Francis Kurkdjian is a French contemporary perfumer of Armenian descent born in Paris on May 14, 1969 and winner of the Prix François Coty in 2001 for his lifetime achievements . After failing the competition to study at the Paris Opera School of Dance in 1983, he decided in 1985 to become a perfumer. He graduated from perfume school ISIPCA Versailles in 1993 and joined Quest International in Paris the same year, preparing in parallel a masters at the Paris Institute of Luxury Marketing. In 1995, at only 26, he created Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier, followed since by more than 40 creations for major fashion designers and houses.
Kurkdjian is the first contemporary perfumer to start his Bespoke Fragrance Atelier in Paris, also in 2001. He was honoured "Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres" by French Government in 2009.
He co-founded his own luxury fragrance house Maison Francis Kurkdjian with business partner Marc Chaya in 2009 in Paris.

List of creations:
  • Acqua di Parma - Iris Nobile (co-signed with Françoise Caron), 2004
  • Christian Lacroix - C'est la fête (co-signed with Jean Jacques), 2007
  • Dior - Cologne Blanche and Eau Noire, 2005
  • Davidoff - Silver Shadow, 2005
  • Elie Saab - Le Parfum, 2011 - Le Parfum, eau de toilette, 2012
  • Elizabeth Arden - Green Tea, 1999
  • Emanuel Ungaro - Apparition (co-signed with Françoise Caron), 2004 - Le Parfum, 2007
  • Escada - Lily Chic, year 2000 Edition
  • Ferragamo - F by Ferragamo, 2006
  • Guerlain - Rose Barbare, 2005
  • Giorgio Armani - Armani Mania, 2002
  • Indult - Isvaraya, 2007 - Manakara, 2007 - Thiota, 2007 - pour Colette C16, 2008
  • Jean-Paul Gaultier - Le Mâle, 1995 - Fragile,1999 - Gaultier Puissance2, 2005 - Fleur du Mâle, 2007 - Eau d'Amour, 2008 - Ligne de beauté Monsieur (co-signed with Nathalie Le Cann), 2008 - MaDame, 2008
  • Joop ! - Muse, 2004
  • Juliette Has a Gun - Miss Charming, 2007 - Lady Vengeance, 2007
  • Kenzo - KenzoKi Lotus blanc, 2002
  • Lancaster - Aquazur, 2004 - Aquasun, 2005
  • Lancôme - Miracle Homme, 2001 - Miracle Homme l'Aquatonic, 2003
  • Lanvin - Rumeur, 2006
  • Narciso Rodriguez - For Her (co-signed with Christine Nagel), 2003 - For Him, 2007
  • Van Cleef & Arpel - Summer and Autumn, 2004
  • Versace - Versus Time for pleasures, 2002 - Jeans couture Glam, 2003
  • Yves Saint Laurent - Kouros Eau d'été, 2002 - Kouros Cologne Sport, 2004
Maurice Roucel

Maurice Roucel is a contemporary perfumer who has worked at companies IFF, Quest, Dragoco and presently Symrise. Roucel began his career in perfumery on February 19, 1973 while working as the head chromatography chemist at Chanel for 6 years. He commenced his apprenticeship under Henri Robert, Chanel's house perfumer at the time. He joined Quest International and for 12 years developed his craft as a perfumer before switching to work for Symrise in 1996. Most of the fragrances composed by Maurice Roucel has his signature scent of Michelia longifolia scent.
He was also the winner of various accolade in the fragrance industry including the Prix François Coty in 2002, and the French and American FiFi as well as the French "Oscar des Parfums" Awards.

Hypnose Homme for Lancôme 

A select few of his most notable perfume creations:

  • Envy for Gucci 1997
  • 24 Faubourg for Hermès 1995
  • Iris Silver Mist for Serge Lutens 1994
  • K de Krizia 1981
  • Tocade for Rochas
  • L'Instant de Guerlain for Guerlain 2004
  • Insolence for Guerlain 2005
  • L'Instant Magic for Guerlain
  • L'Instant Fleur de Mandarine for Guerlain
  • Helmut Lang Eau de Parfum 2000
  • Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne 2000
  • Hypnose Homme for Lancôme 2007
  • Le Labo Jasmine 17 2006
  • Le Labo Labdanum 18 2006
  • Reminiscence Jammin
  • Roberto Cavalli 2002
  • Roberto Cavalli Oro 2004
  • R de Revillon 1995
  • Irium Pour Homme Fabergé 1996
  • Hunca Asimetri Eau de Parfum
  • Samba Unzipped by the Perfumer's Workshop LTD
  • Eros Homme by Tristano Onofri
  • Musc Ravageur for Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle 2000
  • Nautica Voyage 2006
  • Nautica Voyage Island
  • Kiton Black for Kiton 2007
  • DKNY Be Delicious
  • DKNY Be Delicious Charmingly
  • DKNY Red Delicious
  • DKNY Red Delicious Charmingly
  • Missoni 1981
  • Missoni Aqua

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